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My Signature Eye Makeup Technique

4 May

HOW-TO

I have blonde hair, and therefore, blonde eyelashes, and eyebrows…this sometimes is not so pretty. So I have come up with a certain way that I like to do my eye makeup that really accentuates the shape and beauty of them.

Below is a photo of how my eye looks with no eye makeup on:

I love more of a cat-eye look and the almond shape, enhancing the outer corners of my eyes and keeping it natural and lighter on the inner corners. I place the eyeshadow in an UP & OUT technique.  I have come up with this special way to do my eye makeup that I have also tried on some of my makeup clients that seems to work well on a variety of eye shapes.

Here is the finished look:

Without eye makeup, my eyes look small and close-set. I try to make my eyes look larger and farther apart.

Dust a pale, light-reflective shadow across the inner three-quarters of each lid, then apply a dark shadow from lash line to crease at the outer corner using the small shader brush (see brush below). I use A bronze or brown color because it looks more natural than any other shade.

Next step is to add the same bronze color eyeshadow to the lower lashline starting at the outer corner and blending and tapering off half way only:

TIP: Please limit dark liner to the outer corner of your eye (top and bottom) if you are going to use it. But I recommend it at night, I think it tends to be too dark for the daytime. Here is how I apply the cream liner crayon, which I like in either brown or purple. In this photo I’m using the purple one, to give it a subtle pop so that you can see it. I apply it inside lower lashline and underlashes on outer corners only:

Next, BLEND!! Blend the shadow into the crease and outer corners with the larger blending brush.

Add mascara to top lashes, concentrating on outer corners and sweeping lashes out. It is also very important to get the mascara as close to the lash line as you can.

Add a light coat of mascara to the outer corner bottom lashes, and VERY lightly to inner bottom lashes:

Again, concentrate on putting the mascara thicker on the outer corner lashes:

Blending and placement of color are super important.

Sometimes I will add some liquid Eyeliner and False lashes for a more glamorous look for photo shoots or a night out. The photo pictured directly below has no liquid eyeliner and No false lashes. All mine baby!

ImageImage

Brush Up
Your fingers will NOT get the job done. You need good brushes which are dramatically better for blending and building color.
Here is what you need:
You can buy these brushes as a set or individually from www.sunsetblonde.com
From top to bottom:
1. BLENDER BRUSH
Long and fluffy, this tool is perfect for shading your creases, emphasizing the outer corners of your eyes, and blending shadows together. This is my favorite brush, and is essential to this soft shadow look.
2. DELUXE CREASE BRUSH
It’s ideal for applying your base color. Choose one made with super-soft natural hairs, like sable or goat, if you’re working with powdered shadow. I don’t like cream shadows, unless they come in the form of a thick eye pencil.
3. BABY BULLET BRUSH
 I love this brush for shading dark underneath the bottom lashes, outer corners and in the crease. Followed by the Blender Brush to really blend the shadow above the crease.

Some makeup products I recommend to get this look:

Available only for a limited time: Extra Dimension Eyeshadows from MAC in Rich Core (which is a shimmery wine color) and Havana (a pretty bronze), These shadows have high pigmentation and are easily blended.
Also, pictured above are my new favorite Jumbo Crayons from Sephora called Sephora 12H (12 Hour) Waterproof Jumbo Crayons. I have them in almost all the colors, but pictured above is my favorite bronze color in #07 Brown, and #01 White. And below is the Purple color that I used in the photos above.

These are the new shadows and jumbo Cream liner sticks that I’m using right now. I use the shadows on outer corners of upper eyelid and blend into the crease with the small shader brush, then blend with the Blender Brush. Followed by a swipe of the bronze Jumbo Liner pencil under bottom lashes on the outer corners only. Sometimes I will use a highlighter  or light shadow color on the inner corners.

I used this Bronze Essential Eye Shadow Single from Kevyn Aucoin Beauty in the photos above. This is a smooth Bronze color that blends well and comes in a nice compact with a tiny mirror.

The great thing about this look is that once you master it, you can play with different eyeshadow colors. It is really quick and easy to do, and has amazing results.

Let me know if you have any questions and how this look worked for you if you try it!

Also, stay tuned for the Darker & more glamorous night-time version of my Signature Sunset Eye look! With darker eyeshadow, Liquid Eyeliner and False Lashes!

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18 Responses to “My Signature Eye Makeup Technique”

  1. Stephanie May 5, 2012 at 2:33 am #

    For some reason I can’t seem to get my crease bronzey color looking like yours on the outter top corner…maybe because I have different shaped eyes?! Yours is very cat-like and clean. Do you have any advice like maybe a stencil to use or any tricks?! Thanks

    • Sunset Blonde's Blog May 5, 2012 at 8:00 pm #

      Stephanie,
      Try folding a tissue a few times, and putting it against your skin firmly starting at the outer corner of your eye angling upward at a 45 degree angle, and use it as a guide. I will take a photo to show you and add it to the bottom of the post (so check back soon!). Use it to help keep the eyeshadow where you want it to go, and to give you a nice angle. Then remove the tissue and slightly blend the sharp edge with the larger shading brush. Also, having the correct types of brushes are very important in this application technique. What brushes are you using? Are they similar to the ones I suggested?

      • Stephanie May 6, 2012 at 6:31 pm #

        Thank you so much! I absolutely love ur blog 🙂 I tried using the tissue last night when doing my makeup and it def came out better! Just to be clear- for the crease bronze color I should be using the smaller brush of the 3 you listed? I think the brush is probably the problem because I’ve been using a sephora professional brush # 12 and I think it may be too large to achieve this look. Thanks again!

      • Sunset Blonde's Blog May 6, 2012 at 11:55 pm #

        I’m so glad that worked for you! To answer your question, yes, I would start with the smaller brush, and lightly start drawing where you want the bronze eyeshadow to be. Then, once you have the shape done correctly, you can thicken and darken it with that same brush or the second brush if that is easier. Then BLEND well with the largest brush so that there is no obvious line where the eyeshadow ends. I will soon have some makeup brushes for sale on my website, but in the mean time, look for soft bristled ones close to what I have in the photo. Also, I’m not sure what you look like, but maybe try it with a soft taupe colored eyeshadow, matte brown, or even Black eyeshadow (on a night out) once you have mastered it!
        Thanks again for reading my blog! I hope this helps!
        -Sunset Blonde

      • Shelby May 27, 2013 at 7:30 pm #

        Cutting post it note works awesome cause its sticky

  2. Sissi August 1, 2012 at 2:48 pm #

    Been waiting for this post. Love from Norway 🙂

  3. sonya February 10, 2013 at 7:10 pm #

    I lobe hoir make up can u email me with some instructions.. im new at make up bit older mommy.. I love your technic.. thx Sonya

  4. Nan February 12, 2013 at 7:40 am #

    What brand of mascara did you use?

  5. Jas May 15, 2013 at 5:18 pm #

    ^o^

  6. WhiteZeppelin May 15, 2013 at 5:40 pm #

    I wore the makeup to my wedding thank you so much!

  7. glamazondollhouse May 6, 2015 at 4:14 pm #

    Hey there dolly! I loved this post because you have the same line on your eyes as I and my younger sister do. I guess it’s called “hoodedveye” your technique gives our type of eyes the contour line & makes them bigger so beautifully! Btw I’m @paperdollpoetry from i.g. can’t wait to carry your Cashmere Hair for my makeup clients & styling clients! I’m going to send you your form back within a matter of days. I can’t wait!!! And so in love with your blog Xo

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